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We begin with the salsa, because the salsa must rest while the masa works. Lay your sun-dried chiles directly on a dry comal over medium heat and toast them, turning them every few seconds for about a minute. You will know they are ready when the kitchen fills with their fragrance — deep, a little smoky, alive. The color will darken just slightly. Pull them off the moment before you think they are done. A burned chile is a bitter chile, and there is no fixing that.
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Let the chiles cool until your hands can hold them, then tear them open, shake out the seeds — leave some if your family likes the fire — and drop the pieces into your molcajete. Toast the cumin seed in the same dry pan, thirty seconds only, until it jumps in color and smells like something. Add it to the molcajete. Grind everything together until you have a rough, dark paste with some texture still in it. The stone does this better than any machine. Use the machine only if you must.
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Chop the tomatoes and garlic roughly — this is not the time for fine knife work. Dice a quarter of the onion small. Bring everything together in a bowl with your chile paste, the dried oregano, and a good pinch of salt. Mix it with your hands or a wooden spoon until it comes together into something that still has body, still has resistance. Taste it now. It should wake up your mouth. If it needs salt, give it salt. This salsa should not be smooth — memelas need something to hold onto.
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In a bowl, combine your masa with salt and work in warm water a little at a time — a few tablespoons to start. Mix with your hands for a couple of minutes until the masa is soft and pliable and holds itself together. Not dry, because dry masa will crack on the comal. Not wet, because wet masa will cling to your palms and break your heart. You are looking for something that feels like cool, forgiving clay — soft but with a little push back when you press it.
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Wet your hands and pull off a piece of masa about the size of a golf ball. Press it between your palms into a thick disc — three inches across, no more than a quarter inch thick. Thicker than a tortilla, thinner than a cake. Set each disc on a piece of plastic as you go so they don't dry out or stick. This batch makes four memelas. Take your time with the shaping. The comal will wait for you.
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Get your comal or heavy griddle very hot over medium-high heat, then add the lard and let it coat the surface. Lay a memela down — it should sizzle the moment it touches the fat. Cook the first side for about two minutes. You are waiting for the bottom to firm up and take on a light golden color. Listen to it: a hot, loud sizzle at first, and then the sound settles into something quieter. That quieter crackle is the masa telling you it has set. Do not rush this.
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Flip the memela gently and cook the second side for about a minute, just until it firms. Now, while it is still on the comal, use your fingertips to press the edges up all around — a small wall, a quarter inch high, like a little cradle for the filling. Work quickly but without fear. The masa has set enough to hold the shape. This pinching is the gesture that makes a memela a memela. Every abuela's hands know how to do it.
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With the memela still on the comal and its walls standing, spoon two tablespoons of salsa into the center, then lay two tablespoons of black beans on top. Let it all sit together on the heat for thirty to forty-five seconds — just long enough for the filling to warm through and the salsa to begin to meld into the masa. Lift it to a plate and start the next one. Each memela is best eaten as it comes off the comal, one by one, still warm.
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Tear a fresh sprig of epazote over each memela before you bring it to the table. Epazote is the perfume of this food — without it something is missing, though only you will know what. Serve immediately. The masa wants to be eaten warm, the salsa wants to be bright, and the family has been waiting long enough. Nothing else is needed here. This is the food that is simple and complete at the same time, and that is the hardest thing to make.